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High end pieces were often made with rhodium plated settings. Rhodium is a hard metal found in the platinum group and it wears extremely well. I have seen pieces today which look as though they are brand new, but are actually 100 years old. Two well known designers who used platinum settings often are B. David, and Sarah Coventry. As you can see from the picture to the right, a rhodium setting is smooth and every even. It has a luster to it that normal silvertone settings doesn't have. Rhodium settings don't tarnish over time and are very corrosion resistant.

Filigree settings were very popular with many vintage jewelry designers. They have had a resurgence with some newer designers such as 1928, and Avon who also used the setting. the older settings are notable because the beads and pearls were often wired onto these filigree settings. Japan and Germany used filigree settings often, but the most notable designer who used them extensively is Miriam Haskell. The quality of a Haskell piece is unmistakable and a staple of any top quality vintage jewelry collection.

Some people refer to rivoli rhinestones as reverse cut, since the point is on the top of the setting. Schreiner is also famous for this technique.

Better vintage jewelry pieces often have pen back settings which show the back of the rhinestones. The most popular designer of this type of setting is DeLizza and Elster who made the famous Juliana Jewelry, although they were also widely used by other designers of the same time period and continue to today. Most open back settings also use high quality unfoiled glass rhinestones, although I have seen foiled pieces in open back settings too. Unfoiled stones have the advantage that the foil does not wear off or chip with use.

Riveted back settings were used extensively during the 1950s -1960s and are still in use today, but are not often seen now. In this setting, a small rivet is visible on the back of each of the cups that hold the rhinestones. Many designers used this setting, but pieces from Austria are often made with this design technique. Riveted backs are one of the design techniques also used in Juliana jewelry to help identify pieces by this designer.

This is a special type of rhinestone setting that I particularly like, especially since I love to cook! It is found on many pieces from Austria and other designers from the middle of the last century.

This special cup setting has crimped edges which are somewhat flayed around the edges. A version of this is called the pie crust setting for the similarity to a pie crust in baking.

The setting is very romantic and feminine looking.