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While pierced earrings as we know them are a relatively new style of earring which has been popular since the middle of the last century, there were also pierced earrings dating as early as the late 19th Century. One style of pierced earring is the threaded stud.

The post of a threaded stud looks similar to the thread on a hardware screw. In this style, the earring back twists onto the threaded screw to hold the earring securely in place. It is rarely found today, although I have seen it in some high end gold jewelry pieces.

This type of earring has a fish hook style of wire which goes through the earring lobe and is captured at the back by a small lever which folds up and secures it to the ear. It dates to the 1880s and is still in use today.

The kidney wire used a thin earring wire which is in the shape of an upside down letter U. One side is permanently attached to the earring itself, and the other part of the wire is bent at the bottom end and holds the wire in place. This type of earring back is still used today in various forms.

Also called a shepherd crook because of the similarity in design, this type of earring has a hook which forms the ear wire in the shape of a hook. Older styles of this type of pierced earring had no back. The hook just slid through the earring lobe and rested behind the ear. This type of earring can be found from jewelry dating before 1890, and is still in use today, although current versions of it often have small plastic tubes to hold it in place and they are joined to a ring. Earlier styles were a permanent part of the actual earring.

These earring backs date from 1894 and continued through to the middle of the last century. They were very popular with many designers in the 1950s. They are still seen today, but have been more widely replaced by the clip back. The back has a small screw which is tightened to secure the earring to the ear. Some examples of the screw backs show the variety of types used:

This style of earring has a hinged metal clip on the back of the earring. This clip folds up to attach to the earring lobe securely. The clip was patented in 1934. It was also popular in the 1950s and 1960s and continues to be popular today for those that do not wear pierced earrings. There are many styles of clips - too many to show them all. The following photos show a variety used.

Filigree Metal Clip Back

 

 

 

 

 

Comfort Hinged Screw back/Clip Back Combination Earring

Omega Clip Back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Examining the hardware of jewelry can often by a big help to you when you try to date your jewelry. Sometimes, the earring backs can give a definitive date all by themselves, as in the case of the threaded screw. Other times, you will need to examine other design techniques to have a definite idea. That is what is so interesting about vintage jewelry!