Pearl Jewelry
THE CARE AND CLEANING OF VINTAGE PEARL JEWELRY
No other type of vintage jewelry seems quite as romantic to me as pearl jewelry. Whether it be the real thing, cultured pearls, glass pearls or faux pearls, the care and cleaning of them can be a challenge. If you are not very careful, you will end up with damaged jewelry. But never fear; this article should help you learn how to go about this daunting task.
Types of Pearl Jewelry
Pearl jewelry basically falls into four types -
genuine natural pearls, cultivated pearls, glass pearls and faux pearls.
Within each group there are subcategories such as seed pearls, baroque
pearls, Mabe pearls (blister pearls) and the like, but for our purposes
today, we well talk about these four types mentioned above.
Natural and Cultured Pearls
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Pearls are formed when a living mollusk makes
layers of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. This layering is
called nacre and can occur naturally in
nature, or they can be man made. In a natural pearl, a parasite invades the
mollusk and the mollusk then envelops that body in a pearl sac as a
protective measure. Over time the pearl is formed. This happens in the lab
too, but in this case, a pearl farmer gives the pearl a "helping hand" by
adding freshwater mother of pearl into the mollusk. The procedure then
continues as in the case of a natural genuine pearl. Natural genuine pearls
are rare. The majority of pearl jewelry pieces on the market are made from
cultured pearls.
Faux Pearls
Faux pearls are as the name suggests - "fake" or
imitation pearls. They can be made from lucite, or other plastics or from
glass. Both forms are used in vintage jewelry, although glass pearls have
more value. These pearls can be made in two ways - filling the interior of a
bead, or coating the exterior of it with a substance called "essence
d'orient" or pearl powder. The beads are then dipped into various solutions
of pearl film. The more layered it is, the more valuable the piece of
jewelry will be. (and the more durable.)
Storing Pearls
All pearls - no matter the type - are much more
easily damaged than other types of gemstone jewelry. By nature, the outer
coating, whether genuine or faux, will scratch easily and can be damaged
upon contact with any sharp objects. While the natural and cultivated pearls
are more durable than faux pearls, they must still be stored with care. Keep
them away from other jewelry, and store them flat for best results. All
pearl jewelry may have the thread material stretch in time, so it may be
necessary to have them restrung, especially if they are genuine or cultured
pearls.
Store pearl jewelry in linen, or silk, or in any type of
soft cloth pouches. Do not store in plastic bags. Pearls need some moisture
and may crack if the plastic bag is closed and the atmosphere becomes too
dry.
Perfumes and Makeup and Pearl Jewelry
Make up, perfume, hand creams and any other
materials which may stick to pearls should be used carefully. Be sure to put
on your makeup, creams or perfume before you add your pearls, and take the
pearls off before removing these elements too. The best rule to follow with
all pearl jewelry is "Last on, first off."
Normal Care of Pearls
After wearing pearls for the day, just gently wipe
them with a lint free soft cloth before putting them away. This will remove
any makeup or perfume residue and ensure that they won't need too much
cleaning alter. The cloth can either slightly damp or dry, but if you use
one with moisture, be sure to air dry the jewelry before storing it.
Cleaning Dirty Pearls
Do not use ultrasonic cleaners on pearl jewelry.
They are far too harsh on such delicate material. Also be very careful of
cleaners with ammonia, and abrasive cleaners. Use very warm water and a
really mild detergent such as Ivory Flakes. Gently immerse the pearls and
swirl them. Do not use anything to rub them, as this can remove the finish.
With faux pearls, you must be especially careful. I have found a product
called
"Jewelry Joose" fairly effective.
It comes in a spray bottle and you can direct the spray to just the few
pearls that are dirty and then carefully rinse. With faux pearls, if you are
not very careful, you will find the coating will completely come away and it
will pit very easily from any friction. You can also take your pearls to a
jeweler who specializes in cleaning pearl jewelry.
How to dry Pearls
Lay the pearls on an clean soft cloth to dry. You
can lightly fold over a layer of the cloth and gently press to dry a little
more quickly, but do not rub. Be sure that the pearls are completely dry
before putting them away. The cord that pearls are strung on can be damaged
if it stays wet in storage.
Are my pearls real or fake
Whole articles have been written about this
subject and I will talk about it in a later article, but there are a few
tips which will help you to identify whether you have the real thing.
Check the whole where the thread goes through. Real pearls are drilled from
both side to meet in the center. If you look inside, you may be able to see
the layers of the natural substance. Fake pearls will often have "flaking"
at the entry - a sure sign that they are not real.
Run your
pearls along your teeth. A real pearl will feel slightly gritty and a fake
pearl will feel smooth. Also fake pearls will look perfectly matched,
whereas real pearls will have very slight notable differences in the finish
or shape.
Final Notes
By all means, wear and enjoy your pearl jewelry.
With a few common sense tips and gentle care, you will be able to enjoy it
for many years to come.
I try to offer accurate vintage jewelry information, but may make errors from time to time due to mistakes in research information.
