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A web search for a definition of Damascene, will return several different definitions, but most of them refer to the art of inlaying or steel or other metals with gold or silver metals. Many of the definitions also refer to Damascus as the city of origin - hence the name. Some definitions even mistakenly relate it to the process of damskeeening or engine turning.

As it pertains to jewelry, the word Damascene is a process whereby non precious metals are decorated with 18-24K gold in decorative patterns. The procedure is for artisans to cover the surface of an object with fine grooves, using sharp cutting tools.  Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces.  Then gold wires are pressed into these grooves with a steel punch and hammer. Figures are then drawn on the scored surfaces. The whole item is then blued to produce a black background by a total oxidation of the surfaces which are not damasked. A delicate and light process of chipping gives a lovely sheen to the object. Finally, the piece is mounted to give the final object.  

The finished product is a very dramatic look with many Damascene designs focusing on the Renaissance look of birds and flowers. You will also find Arabesque and geometric designs and landscape designs are possible, particularly in Japanese Damascene.

The process dates back to the middle ages and was used by Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. It became popular in the XV century in Europe. Toledo, Spain is the largest producer of Damascene today.

Reed and Barton have an unique look to their Damascene jewelry with amber and orange colored backgrounds and designs in silver, instead of the traditional black and gold designs commonly seen.

Much of the Damascene produced for sale on the internet is actually made in the "Damascene Technique"- also called "Toledo Damascene, or would perhaps be better called "Faux Damascene." It has the appearance of genuine Damascene jewelry, in that it is often black and gold, but the gold is not usually genuine 18k or 24K, and much of it is mass produced - some in Spain and much in the far east.

As can be seen from the photos, there is a wide variety of looks for Damascene jewelry.  Vintage Jewelry Lane has a nice selection of designs in various price ranges.  No matter the style, Damascene jewelry is highly collectible and sought after.