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What is a Tutti Frutti?

There are so many terms in vintage jewelry that are misused by sellers, but one of the most commonly misused one, in my opinion, is "tutti frutti." I've seen this word consistently applied to any piece of jewelry that looks like fruit, or an ornate jewelry piece with lots of colored rhinestones. Neither of these uses is correct. When used correctly, the term has a very specific meaning.

Tutti frutti vintage jewelry is that which is set with multi colored gemstones or cabochons. The stones are in the shape of flowers, berries and leaves. The stones can be plastic, glass, or thermoset. Celluloid pieces which are carved into flowers or leaves aren't tutti frutti since they aren't made with stones or cabochons. The term applies to the stone itself.

Many tutti frutti pieces use fairly translucent stones, but not all are this type. The main characteristic of the stone is the carving or molding of it into the leaf, fruit or flower design. Designers who used this type of design often were Juliana (never marked), Lisner, Coro, and Trifari among others.

A notable use of tutti frutti in jewelry started in 1925 when Jacques Cartier first started using these stunning multi colored designs after a trip to India and a commission from the Indian maharajahs. In the 1970s, this style was named Tutti Frutti which means "all fruits" in Italian. Cartier designed a piece called the "Hindu Necklace" that he design for one of his most loyal customers, Daisy Fellowes, in 1936. The Tutti Frutti style has remained one of Cartier's greatest specialties and he registered the trademark over 10 years ago.

A fabulous example of Tutti Frutti Brooch stones in a brooch is the design picture above which realized over $44,000 in a recent Christie's auction.This stunning piece was designed as a carved emerald within a carved ruby and emerald surround to the variously cut diamond, yellow diamond, sapphire, emerald and ruby details. The stones are just fabulous.

Here are some examples of Tutti Frutti jewelry pieces. (click the pictures for more detail)

While not as elaborate as the above photo, and not made with precious metals, the following photos are some more examples of the style. Click to enlarge for details. I'm taking liberties a bit with the second photo. The leaves which make up the flower are plastic, so they aren't strictly referred to as tutti frutti, but the style is similar.

To view other articles on other vintage words, please visit the word of the week archives.

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