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What is Nielloware?

The term Niello is used to refer to a method of decorating metal objects, using engraving techniques. In this technique silver, copper, sulphur or lead are rubbed into an indented pattern and then fired. When the object is polished, darkened areas remain for a decorative effect. This technique is often used in Siam Sterling Jewelry and there is a whole collecting area of vintage jewelry referred to as Siam Sterling Nielloware.

Although we often think of Nielloware and couple it with Siam and Thailand during the 1930s to today, the Niello process has been used for hundreds of years dating back to the 13th century and before. Some researchers believe that Niello was originally produced in Egypt, as far back as the 4th century B.C. There are a few early items are housed in the British Museum from the first and fourth century. Some early historians believe that Nielloware was introduced to Siam through the East Indian merchants who traveled the ancient trade routes between India and China. The first real mention of Nielloware in Thai recorded history comes from the Royal Family Laws during the reign of King Trai Lok Nat in the mid 1400s.

Only some select pieces from India, Japan, and Russia (and Siam of course) are currently seen in antique shops and shows. The mass production of this form of jewelry started in about 1930 or so.

Strictly speaking the Niello process results in a black background. There are many sterling silver pieces from Siam which use other colors such as blue, green, red, pink, white and yellow. While these are collectible in their own right, they use a less demanding enameling procedure.

Siam sterling Nielloware pieces are marked in a variety of ways. Markings include: Made in Siam, Siam Sterling Silver, or Siam Sterling 925. The engravings are normally directly in the metal instead of on cartouches. Some Nielloware jewelry is also marked Made in Thailand. The name of the country can't be used to definitively date the piece. Even though Siam was the name of Thailand prior to 1939, the markings for Siam jewelry continued to be used for many more years. Here are pictures of a few of the markings.

Designs of Nielloware often displays Nekkala, the Goddess of Lightning from the Hindu legend Ramayana. There are other designs as well, although they are not as commonly seen, including monkeys, elephants and other symbols from Thai culture, folklore, religious lore, and spiritual beliefs.

Much of the Nielloware jewelry available in the USA came from husbands and boyfriends who were on leave during the Vietnam War and sent gifts of Siam Sterling jewelry to their girl friends and wives. Much of this jewelry was completely hand made. While not especially valuable as jewelry pieces, Nielloware jewelry pieces are wonderful keepsakes and often will hold sentimental value for the bearer. Common Nielloware styles of jewelry are brooches, cuff links, earrings and to a lesser degree necklaces, rings and bracelets.

Value of Nielloware varies depending on the quality. Since much of it is hand made, the technique varies. It seems to have had a resurgence in popularity from about 1970 and continues to be popular today.

Here are some examples of Markings found on Nielloware and photos of the styles.

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